On the last day of the trip, we pass the monastery of St Naum, known as the miracle-maker.

There are many legends of miracles he is said to have performed.

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With so many mountains, Macedonia is well set up for hikers, walkers, bikers and adventure travellers who want something different.

In towns and villages, a fascinating mix of history ranges from Alexander the Great to Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans and the Communist era. We spend a night in Popova Kula winery which produces 20 different red, white and rosé wines in the Tikveshiya wine region.

Kalist is also overseeing the restoration project for the frescoes and the monastery itself, much of which was destroyed by fire in 2013.

Kalist doesn't mind being on his own at Treskavec - in fact, he admits his delight with his posting.

People who pray to Naum believe that he will fulfil their wishes.

But for me, getting to see places like this is more than a wish come true.

Then, Skopje was part of the Ottoman Empire while now it is the capital of Macedonia, home to around half a million people.

It's a quirky city - its government has been on a controversial spending spree, buying giant statues and putting up enormous buildings to change the style of the city, while alongside this sits a fascinating old Turkish bazaar and a 15th-century stone bridge.

At the start of the walk, we see tobacco fields and wooden tobacco drying racks outside houses.

Almond, hazelnut and linden trees grow around the houses at the base of the mountain - some fancy modern buildings; some traditional; all merged into a pile of indistinct red roofs from above.

The earliest church here was in the 5th century and today there are buildings from the 12th, 13th and 15th centuries.